What a change in scenery the last few days. Immediately
following the service on Sunday of last week, we blitzed and
crammed our belongings back into our suitcases, took pictures
and said goodbyes. Bags were loaded back into a "fugon"
(makeshift transportation van. The spelling is probably
incorrect, it's pronounced "foo-g-own"), and traveled an hour or
so through the rain, and back over the unfinished dirt road we
came in on (the government, it is said, reports that they've
torn it up to pave it afresh, but it's been in sad condition for
quite a while now according to locals).
A colloquial Albanian language book I was glancing through at
the beginning of our trip describes the people as friendly,
hospitable, loyal and brave, as well as quick-tempered and
stubborn. We've seen all of this in our interactions with
people, and the land bears this out as well. The Albanian
landscape is awesome in raw beauty. Our way to and from Korce
sent us jolting up and down unfinished roads, somehow laid down
along the tops of mountains and overlooking grand valleys of red
poppies and olive trees against a background of dusty green,
orange and yellow. Sprinkled across this are the markings of
3/4 of a century of communism, struggle and attempted plans.
Small dome-shaped bunkers were visible everywhere we went,
physical evidence of the paranoia and phobia that for so long
was directed toward the west. Half-finished houses and
structures are everywhere, many of which are inhabited.
We piled out of the fugon in the sprinkling rain on the
Macedonian-Albanian border, and attempted to get a feel for our
surroundings (declining help with our bags from a man who didn't
speak any Albanian). The change in scenery was dramatic. We
were now surrounded by mountains carpeted generously in a thick
layer of deep green fir trees. We crossed the border without
issues (though the man at the passport counter did ask if we had
a ride.. apparently not many walk across the border here) and
met up with our driver, who as it turns out also ran the guest
house we were to stay at. More individual experiences to relate
here, naturally including another tea ceremony with the host
family. Perhaps the rest of the team will fill it in. Our drive from Struga to Skopje was significant, there is more to say here another time.
Skipping ahead quite a bit for the sake of time, we have now
arrived in Ankara, Turkey (arrived last night). I believe today
we are finally adjusting to this third major location change
(it's taken us a day and a night.. perhaps Sue can relate the
story of the pension we stayed in last night, and why we aren't
staying there tonight..) Turkey has welcomed us with open arms.
Today we have had extremely fruitful conversations with several
people, for which we are thankful. Tomorrow we head outside of
the city to get a feel for some of the more remote areas. We have a driver who speaks english and is a friend, and we're really anticipating it.
I'll be posting updates throughout the day on twitter from our mobile phone. There are even some from the last week and a half. You can follow the feed here: http://twitter.com/bnwri
